A saucy dish: Tagliatelle Bolognese - Tucson News Now

A saucy dish: Tagliatelle Bolognese

Updated: May 29, 2014 03:21 PM
© David Hagerman / Bonnier © David Hagerman / Bonnier
  • What's Cooking NowMore>>

  • Favorite Recipe Collections

    Favorite Recipe Collections

    Check here for the full archive of recipe collections.
    Check here for the full archive of recipe collections.
  • Savory pies

    Savory pies

    Stuffed with meats, veggies or cheeses, savory pies are a favorite on kitchen tables around the world. Dig in and check out this variety of recipes.
    Stuffed with meats, veggies or cheeses, savory pies are a favorite on kitchen tables around the world. Dig in and check out this variety of recipes.
  • Graham cracker classics

    Graham cracker classics

    Check out this collection of ways to use graham crackers, a snack time favorite and classic ingredient in desserts.

By




This afternoon, as always, I am preparing the ragù my father taught me to make. He cooked it with pork in the manner of Emilia-Romagna, where I grew up.


When I moved to the town of Bevagna in Umbria, to the south, and opened my little trattoria, I chose to use beef as an homage to this region's prized Chianina, a breed of cattle whose belly has the perfect ratio of fat to lean to make a juicy, fragrant sauce.


People ask if I use butter in my bolognese. I do not. I use olive oil because the aromas of the beef fat are delicious on their own.


I mince the meat and simmer it on a low flame with olive oil; finely minced celery, carrot, and onion; a few tablespoons of a rich conserva that I make with tomatoes from my garden; and some local red wine, sagrantino. Its drying tannins contrast with the fat, and it releases the most extraordinary perfume. A couple of bay leaves, and the sauce is done.


I prepare fresh tagliatelle every day. When an order comes in, as it did just now, I throw some pasta in a pan with the ragù, a little salt, pepper, and oil, and, for creaminess and a touch of sweetness, some well-aged parmesan. Then I garnish it with whatever herbs I have growing and send it out to the dining room.


From the kitchen, I can hear my wife, Enza, wish the diner not “buon appetito,” but “buon divertimento” — have fun — because as they eat this dish, they can savor all kinds of beautiful aromas, and it's really a kind of adventure.


La Trattoria di Oscar
Piazza del Cirone 2
Bevagna, Italy
39/0/742-361-107



See the recipe for Tagliatelle Bolognese »



Filippo Artioli is the chef-owner of La Trattoria di Oscar.




© 2014 SAVEUR
All rights reserved.
*DISCLAIMER*: The information contained in or provided through this site section is intended for general consumer understanding and education only and is not intended to be and is not a substitute for professional advice. Use of this site section and any information contained on or provided through this site section is at your own risk and any information contained on or provided through this site section is provided on an "as is" basis without any representations or warranties.
Powered by WorldNow